Winter Lay Up

As Autumn comes along we hope most will be reflecting warmly on a summer season full of memorable and reliable classic motoring. But it's also a time to look ahead - and to decide what to do with your classic car over the winter months.

Of course, if you're one of those intrepid automobilists who use a classic car as your daily transport the decision is probably made for you; there's probably nothing for it but to brave the slush and road salt of our miserable British winters.

If however you don't need to use your classic car through the winter months you need to decide whether to lay it up. Here, one point above all should influence your decision. In our 30 years' experience of restoring and repairing old cars we've come across countless examples of old cars that have deteriorated more through improper storage than if they'd been driven through a damp British winter on salt-covered roads.

The ideal conditions in which to store a classic car are of course a dry garage, but it is still viable to lay up a vehicle under a car port or even off road in the open air - as long as you do it properly. A few hours spent on diligent preparation will save a lot of time and, quite possiibly, considerable expense come spring time. How many of today's so-called barn finds, we wonder, were merely intended to be laid up for a few months but instead sank into a deep and deteriorating slumber before their eventual resurrection? So here goes.

PREPARATION:

1. Now is the time to change the oil and filter - before you put your car to bed. Old oil containing acidic material can damage your engine if left for a long time.

2. Drain and replenish the cooling system with the right proportion of water and anti-corrosion anti-freeze to cope with the coldest days of winter.

3. A spring clean. Yes, this really is the time to give your car a thorough wash and clean both on the exterior and interior, using a high-pressure hose to remove accumulated road dirt from the underside. A steam clean under the bonnet wouldn't go amiss either and will aid inspection and repair of faults that you can attend to in the winter months. After this thorough cleaning, leave the car for a couple of days to allow all the water to drain away.

4. Apply grease to all mild steel brake and fuel pipes. This won't prevent corrosion from the inside but will certainly stop corrosion from the outside.

5. It's also a good idea to deal with any stone chips on the bodywork at this time before rust develops.

6. Petrol: Condensation forms inside empty tanks and causes them to rot through, so leave tanks half or more full over the winter lay-up. If the car is standing on its road wheels give it a bounce from time to time to slosh the fuel around the tank. If the car is to be laid up for a year or more, drain the tank completely as the petrol is likely to become stale (you can tell by the peculiar smell) and contaminated with water.

7. Prepare your garage or storage space to accept the car. First make sure that there are no leaks then give it a thorough clean to remove dust and dirt which will otherwise migrate to the car. Make as much space as you can around the car to enable easy access and ensure that anything stored overhead is secure and won't fall on the car. The more pleasant your storage environment the more likely you'll be to pay frequent visits and spend time working on your car.

There are several other tasks that can either be tackled now or when the car is in position in its winter resting place. Our experience suggests that it's best to do them now, because once the car is out of sight it can also be out of mind and these jobs can be delayed until they're eventually forgotten.

8. Apply a fresh coat of underside anti-rust preservative like Waxoyl.

9. Apply a good coating of wax polish to the bodywork, but don't polish it off (when you put the car back on the road another coat of wax and elbow grease will restore the shine). Likewise treat brightwork with either lacquer or a generous coating of wax or Vaseline.

10. Apply grease to all grease-points on steering, suspension and driveline.

11. Interiors: In the case of leather upholstery apply a good-quality hide food to keep it supple in its period of non-use. It's also sensible to cover seats and floor coverings with dust sheets - if the place of storage is dry and airy. (Otherwise the dust sheets may help to harbour condensation and form material-eating mildew). Don't forget to lubricate mechanisms like seat runners, door and boot hinges, and hold-open devices, otherwise these may seize.

12. Screenwash: Drain fluid from pipes and jets and empty the reservoir. This not only prevents frost damage, but also the forming of sediment in the fluid as it stands.

13. Convertibles: Store with the hoods raised to prevent creasing, especially of rear windows, but also try to prevent direct sunlight from falling on the hood fabric or window plastic, as it will accelerate fading and deterioriation.

14. Windscreen wipers: Either remove wiper arms or raise blades clear of glass by placing a match box or similar under each arm. This prevents the blade sticking to the glass or deforming unnecessarily. Note: don't lift arms more than is necessary for the the blade to clear the glass, or the arm tension spring may weaken.

15. Lights: Check all lamp assemblies for water or condensation on the inside. If in doubt remove lamp lenses (if possible) and dry out the interiors to prevent long-term condensation of bulb holders.

16. Radio aerials: Telescopic aerials should be greased well if you intend to leave them retracted.

17. Door, bonnet and boot aperture seals: Smear a light coat of silicone grease or vaseline on the seal faces to prevent seals sticking to paint surfaces.

 BLOCKS OR WHEELS?

You have the choice of putting your classic car up on blocks or to leave it standing on its road wheels. If it's simply winter storage it's probably easier to leave it resting on its wheels as this will enable you to roll the car out on to your drive-way give it an airing from time to time.

If you choose this course it's important to overinflate each of the tyres a few pounds per square inch above their normal pressures. REMEMBER TO CHECK TYRES REGULARLY. Underinflated or flat tyres left bearing the weight of a car for any length of time will deform permanently and be ruined.
If you're placing the car off the ground, first jack it up and then prop the car securely under its suspension on stout axle stands or substantial wooden block.

Download the Winter Lay up or our Spring Start up factsheets as PDFs.